Philippines Travel Diaries
Fresh from a three-week adventure through the Philippines, I am beyond excited to share with you my journey through this captivating pocket of Southeast Asia. The country’s natural beauty is unparalleled. Envision secluded islands draped with palm trees gracefully bowing over unspoiled, ivory beaches, and waters so clear you can glimpse the shells on the ocean floor. The Philippines, a collection of 7641 islands, offers not only tropical coastlines but also enchanting waterfalls, towering limestone cliffs, hidden lagoons, exhilarating canyoneering, rice terraces and enthralling snorkeling & diving escapades. We met underwater worlds of colour, bursting with vibrant coral, starfish, gorgeous shells & kaleidoscopic dancing schools of fish. The Philippines truly holds an impressive array of wildlife. There are opportunities to spot whale sharks, sardine runs, tarsiers, and so many other fascinating creatures.
Filipino culture is shaped by a unique mix of Spanish, American, and Chinese influences. These diverse threads have woven the warm and welcoming (and incredibly humorous! My friend Brooke and I were basically in stitches laughing the entire trip) nature of the Filipino people, who are consistently ranked among the friendliest in Asia, creating an inviting atmosphere for travellers. I recommend spending at least three weeks in the Philippines. While you could easily spend months exploring this beautiful country, the three-week route we took will take you to some of the best places in the Philippines.
Weather & best time to visit the Philippines
Timing is everything for a perfect getaway to the Philippines. While this tropical paradise has two distinct seasons, the weather in the Philippines can vary significantly between islands. The Philippines’ two primary seasons are the dry season from December to April and the wet season from May to November. However, some islands may flip the script and follow the opposite seasonal pattern. As a whole, avoid the months of July to October, when typhoons may hit the country. We were there from the end of December through to January, and had mostly beautiful sunny days.
Regional Variations — certain regions can experience different weather patterns, like El Nido and Siargao, which have two completely different seasons at the same time of the year. Before mapping out your Philippines holiday, it’s worth checking island-specific forecasts :)
El Nido
El Nido in Palawan is home to the most beautiful destinations in the world. Secret lagoons, towering limestone cliffs, sandbars, pristine islands, and white beaches with turquoise waters are just a glimpse of what the Philippines has in store. While the island hopping tours in El Nido are the most popular reason to visit, there's much more to explore in this beautiful town.
Brooke and I started our journey from Manila to El Nido by first catching a flight to Puerto Princesa Airport. From there, we arranged a driver to take us the rest of the way in a minivan. There are direct flights from Manila to El Nido, however, these flights quickly sold out! Travelling up to El Nido was an adventure in itself, driving through a winding road surrounded by mountains and endless palm trees. We were being tossed around in the back of the minivan while snacking on mangos & mangosteens that we picked up from a vibrant roadside fruit stand, and we couldn’t stop laughing at ourselves because it turns out it’s actually quite difficult to not have your face covered in mango when speeding around corners with no seat belts! As we were approaching El Nido, we were absolutely in awe with our jaws on the floor. Upon our arrival in the afternoon, we were greeted by the sight of afternoon sun-lit limestone mountains, seemingly suspended over the shimmering sea. We were quite literally in disbelief.
The El Nido island hopping tours are a must-do experience when visiting El Nido. You’ll get to adventure through a protected area called Bacuit Bay, made up of 45 beautiful islands, which has been named one of the most beautiful destinations in the entire world. Tours A, B, C & D all visit different islands, lagoons and snorkelling spots, we did tours A & C which were incredible and left us awestruck.
Watching the sunset at Las Cabanas Beach was another highlight for us in El Nido, we also spent days here swimming, laying in the sun and drinking coconuts. It’s one of the most popular and developed beaches in El Nido and is certainly the best beach to watch the sunset. Lio Beach is also stunning and we loved how it was beautifully lit up at night with fairy lights, blazing sunset colours and so many delicious restaurant options. We spent a total of 5 nights in El Nido and were there to celebrate New Year’s Eve, which was truly the best day & evening to close 2023. That day we island hopped, snorkelled, kayaked, dined at a gorgeous Mexican beachfront restaurant - ‘Sunset Las Cabanas’, enjoyed a post-dinner beach walk, popped in on a street party out the front of our favourite coconut ice cream place, watched fireworks, and then we were invited in to have dinner with a local family at 2am and got a taste for some home-cooked Filipino cuisine.
Tao Expedition - El Nido to Coron
Embarking on a 5-day, 4-night voyage with Tao Expeditions after our delightful stay in El Nido was a decision that would etch itself as one of the most remarkable experiences of my life. This was no ordinary boat trip; it was a journey through the 250km stretch of remote tropical islands between El Nido, Linapacan and Coron in Northern Palawan. From the moment we joined our diverse group of travellers and the local islander crew, it was clear that we were stepping into an adventure beyond the ordinary.
Each night, we found ourselves nestled in bamboo huts on private, secluded islands, far removed from the hustle and bustle of civilisation. The tranquillity of these untouched islands was nothing short of magical. Our days were spent traversing the azure waters aboard the boat, gradually making our way to the next destination while taking in the beauty of the surrounding scenery. Yet, there was always time to unwind and bask in the serenity of each stop along the way.
Mealtimes were a feast for the senses, with an array of fresh, local ingredients served up with joy. From freshly caught fish with classic Asian sauces to coconuts, to vibrant salads featuring grilled plantains and tropical fruits, every meal was colourful and beyond delicious. One of the highlights was the opportunity to collect shells and have them crafted into necklaces and bracelets — a reminder of our time spent in paradise. As someone who often spends time at the beach admiring shells and their patterns and colours, this was a dream come true.
Mornings always greeted us with refreshing sunrise swims, setting the tone for each day of exploration. With no electricity or internet reception on the islands, we embraced a digital detox and the simplicity of island life. Relaxing in hammocks, flipping through vintage National Geographic books, and plunging into the crystal-clear waters became cherished rituals, punctuating our days with moments of calm. I experienced the most astounding snorkelling I have ever done, jumping off the boat into the bluest water you could imagine and diving into colourful underwater wonderlands, rich in vibrant coral formations, exotic fish, colossal starfish, and an array of perfect shells. Evenings were filled with taking in the sunsets and laughter over dinner as we gathered around for games and exchanged travel stories.
The Tao Expedition from El Nido to Coron was not just a voyage across the sea; it was a trip that left an imprint on me — a testament to the entire experience and beauty of the Philippines. I cannot wait to relive this extraordinary trip and explore with Tao Expeditions in the future.
Coron
Coron offers breathtaking limestone formations surrounded by pristine white beaches and several clear jade-green freshwater lakes in its centre. Similar to El Nido, Coron is part of Palawan Island. While the town itself is compact, it serves as a bustling port for embarking on island-hopping tours. Brooke and I spent 3 nights and 2 full days in Coron. We spent a day on the water for the renowned "super ultimate tour" that took us through the region's most captivating sights. Standouts from our adventure included:
Twin Lagoon: An electric-blue-green oasis accessible inside a narrow swim-through gap between towering cliffs. Here, we floated through the landscape in a clear kayak and found regions that avoided the crowds — it was just us and these magnificent limestone cliffs draped with lush vegetation.
Banol Beach: This was our lunch spot, a deck suspended over crystalline water. Here we savoured a vibrant lunch created from fresh market produce while enjoying the island surroundings. We ate a delicious Filipino lunch that was freshly prepared on the boat. This included an eggplant salad, veggie stir-fried noodles, fish, fresh fruits, and rice. A scrumptious thing to do in Coron!
Barracuda Lake: Nestled inside more limestone cliffs, Barracuda Lake holds surreal emerald waters. The water is so clear that you can see the limestone cliff go all the way down when you’re still standing on the wooden deck! This is definitely a site worth seeing.
While Coron Island doesn't offer an abundance of activities, the real gems lie in the island-hopping boat trips just off Coron Island. On the island, we enjoyed visiting Cabo Beach, a small stretch of sand with huts where you can relax with a view of beautiful rolling green mountains! We also loved the Maquinit Hot Springs, a natural salt-water 40-degree hot spring surrounded by a mangrove forest, with a stunning view over the ocean. Be sure to stay hydrated and take regular breaks from the water when visiting the hot springs, as you are already in the heat!
Bohol
Departing Coron, we had a big travel day — we flew to Cebu Island, and then caught a 2 hour ferry from Cebu to Bohol Island. Upon arrival, we found ourselves in Panglao, a bustling diving hub nestled at the southern tip of Bohol. Our home for the next four nights was a gorgeous AirBnB that felt like a sprawling wooden treehouse.
We spent 4 nights and 3 full days in Bohol and eagerly set out to explore the wonders of this little island. We visited the iconic Chocolate Hills, a natural marvel that’s a slight mystery to locals and travellers alike. Sometimes called the "Eighth Wonder of the World," the Chocolate Hills are exactly what they sound like: rounded hills located at the centre of the tiny island that go brown in colour during the dry season, so they end up looking like giant chocolate truffles — although we found them coated in lush greenery during our visit! There's no clear count as to how many hills there are exactly — some say 1,268, while others have counted as high as 1,776.
In addition to the Chocolate Hills, what also makes Bohol unique is the Philippine Tarsier. These are monkey-like nocturnal animals. When you first see them, you’ll notice that they are absolutely tiny. A fully-grown Tarsier is roughly 100 millimetres in height. However, they can leap up to five metres. Another funny fact, each eye is heavier than their brain. They can also turn their heads 180 degrees to each side. Watching these little guys in their natural habitat was a beautiful experience. Our exploration continued with a visit to a butterfly sanctuary, a haven of vibrant colours, striking patterns and delicate beauty. As a longtime admirer of butterflies, I was in awe as hundreds of these winged wonders fluttered about and even landed on us. It was truly an amazing experience.
We had a rainy day in Bohol and saw it as an opportunity to indulge in a spa day. Seeking refuge from the rain, we stumbled upon the Kai Spa at the Henan Resort — a spa where you’re greeted by the soothing sounds of the ocean. We opted for a treatment that began with a coffee body scrub, followed by a clay body wrap — it was my first time having a body wrap and I loved it. The highlight was our bubble bath on the balcony overlooking the ocean, and the treatment ended with foot reflexology and herbal honey tea. Despite the luxurious setting, the prices were surprisingly reasonable!
We enjoyed plenty of meals at Shaka Cafe — an Aussie-owned franchise in the Philippines, with a healthy & whole foods-focused menu. Shaka is entirely vegan and offers plenty of juices, smoothies, smoothie bowls, nourish bowls, nori & rice paper rolls, sweet potato chips, and decadent raw desserts.
Cebu
After bidding Bohol farewell in the early morning, we traversed back to bustling Cebu City aboard a ferry for the next chapter of our trip. Our destination? The quaint seaside town of Moalboal, a treasure of a town nestled along Cebu's southwest coastline. Moalboal is the absolute best place to base in Cebu for all of your adventures. Renowned for its diving and snorkelling opportunities, picturesque waterfalls, and charming seaside villas, Moalboal was the perfect place to spend the last part of our Philippines trip. I loved that despite Moalboal gaining attention from divers and backpackers, it has managed to preserve its laid-back charm and small-town atmosphere. It strikes a perfect balance, not too remote yet not overly bustling or touristy. We stayed in Moalboal for 4 nights and 4 days which was an ideal amount of time for us to both adventure and relax.
One of the standout highlights of our Moalboal experience undoubtedly was our accommodation choice. Casa de Moalboal welcomed us with open arms, and from the moment we stepped foot onto this hidden seaside property, we were in awe of this little oasis off the beaten tracks… the view of the ocean and mountains was just breathtaking. Casa de Moalboal is a spacious private compound with a large gate that is always closed, and only opens to guests and staff, which made us feel extremely safe! The place is in such good condition and is adorned with the most beautiful pink, orange, and purple flowering trees. Waking up in the morning to our daily breakfast of mangos and eggs (simple yet delicious!) was such a delight, and coming back after a day of adventuring was so relaxing. The best part was that we had beach access and were able to snorkel right at our doorstep, where we saw a plethora of vibrant blue starfish, seahorses, lively anemones, and more exotic fish. Brooke and I swam out to a floating dock pontoon, lounged in the sun for a bit, swam back, and honestly, it was such a fun, relaxing, and memorable experience for us.
During our exploration of Cebu, we encountered three remarkable waterfalls: Inambakan Falls, Hidden Falls, and Aguinid Falls. Each held its own unique beauty. Inambakan Falls, my favourite, is a striking100-foot cascade plunging into a tranquil teal pool. We spent quite some time here in the morning, swimming behind the curtain of water, diving off the rocks, and jumping from the surrounding cliffs. Because we were there early, it was nice & quiet. Next, we visited Hidden Falls, nestled at the end of a leisurely 20-minute jungle trail through a path flanked by endless swaying coconut palms. As we meandered through, our guide gathered fresh coconuts for us to drink from above, and pointed out wild cacao and jackfruit trees. Aguinid Falls is a multi-tiered splendor, with eight distinct levels of cascading beauty. The journey to the different waterfall levels itself was a workout, as we hiked through flowing waters, bamboo bridges, and even scaled near-vertical portions of the falls aided by sturdy ropes. The best part was reaching the fifth level, where I pulled myself up into a cave behind the falls and jumped out into the pastel-ice blue water below. Reaching the top of Aguinid Falls was incredibly rewarding. On our way back down, Brooke and I enjoyed a scenic ride in the back of a truck down a winding jungle road. With ocean views unfolding before us and the refreshing breeze tousling our hair, the experience was simply magical.
An underwater treasure to see in Moalboal is the millions of sardines swimming and circling just offshore — famously known as the “sardine run”. Imagine yourself swimming through a million sardines just metres away from the shore in deep blue waters. This experience is surreal and simply unmissable if you’re in Cebu. The reef drops off dramatically around 20-30 metres from the shore, providing the perfect spot to observe these fish congregating, moving, gliding, and darting about. It's an experience that’s otherworldly.
Here are my food recommendations for Moalboal: Smoothe Cafe, Shaka, Hungry Monkeys, My Greek Taverna, and the 'Daily Sweet Cafe Snow Ice Shop' — don't miss out on their incredibly delicious coconut ice cream, made fresh from only coconut milk and coconut water, served inside a large young coconut! It's incredible. Also, Hungry Monkeys serves up the most delectable pad thai that I've ever had the pleasure of tasting.
Thank you for reading!
Travelling through the Philippines was an experience rich in adventure and cultural immersion, all while being a time to unwind. I’m so thankful for all the beautiful memories and the chance to delve into such a diverse destination. This trip undoubtedly has woven itself into the fabric of my heart, and I cannot wait to return and continue exploring even more of its boundless wonders. Next time, I am so curious to explore Siargao and Siquijor! If you're considering a trip to Southeast Asia, I wholeheartedly recommend adding the Philippines to your itinerary. :)
To watch more adventures from this trip, click through my Philippines highlight saved to my Instagram profile, linked here!
Big hugs,
Liv x
